This article was first published in Tararua Tramper in February 2025
A failed attempt to visit two remote Tararua huts
16 - 18 December 2024
In the week up to our planned northern crossing of the Tararua Range, the weather forecast pendulum swung from extreme wet and windy to pretty good. Even as we arrived at the Poads Road end in the threatening rain, Wednesday and Thursday looked OK.
The intended route had been decided upon by Mike W-R, our leader, with input from others and final approval from Janette. It was to involve a stroll across the tops from Te Matawai to Carkeek on a ‘fine weather essential’ day, a wander from there to Dorset Ridge Hut and then a marathon out over South King and Baldy to Holdsworth on Thursday.
Mike unfortunately had to pull out, but was ably replaced by Lynne. His friend Murray of the HVTC was still game to pick us up (in the HVTC van) at 6 a.m. Monday morning and take us out to the Poads Road end for a 7.50 start. A big shout out and thanks to Murray. We made good progress to the old hut site above the Ōhau River, where we had a short breather, leaving there at 9.15 to continue up the Gable End Track, despite it being officially closed because of a slip. There are ropes to aid crossing it and we all agreed it was less of a challenge than the slip above the Tauherenīkau bridge on the way to Tutuwai Hut, a track that has not been closed.
Gable End Track was, is, and I assume always will be very muddy. The weather was muggy, but it was not yet raining. We made it beyond Mayo Knob and had a dry lunch but our luck ran out just before Richards Knob and the heavens opened. It took us two hours 15 minutes to reach Te Matawai from there, 15 minutes longer than the signposted time. We arrived at the hut looking somewhat bedraggled, to be met by a lone Te Araroa walker who had left the carpark at the same time as we had, and arrived at the hut an hour before us despite going via Waiopehu Hut!
That night after a review of the forecast it became obvious that we were not going to be strolling along the tops in the predicted 80km winds on Tuesday and Thursday. Our marathon day over South King and Baldy was also looking particularly miserable, so the decision was made to return to Ōhau with a stopover at Waiopehu Hut. The route over Twin Peaks and Waiopehu was again muddy and the promised wind kept the temperature down but we were able to botanise and admire the flowers along the way. Lunch was taken out of the wind on the twin peaks amongst the flowering sundew.
We arrived at Waiopehu Hut at about 2 p.m.(having left Te Matawai at 8.30) in plenty of time to clean the mud off ourselves and our boots. We were joined for the evening by two young fellas on their first major expedition with some rather interesting gear choices, and another party of seven oldies on a family and friends’ trip. They came prepared with a quiz which kept us entertained for the evening. One question was: How many named peaks over 1,500m are there in the Tararua Range?* The following day we set off at about 8.30 and, as we had plenty of time to get to the road end, we took our time looking for an old hut site and taking a long lunch at Palmers Camp, an open area on the old track. Warren, in the TTC van, was waiting for us at the road end with a smile, despite our being late for our 1.30 p.m. rendezvous. Many thanks Warren; without you and Murray being willing to give up your time this trip would not have gone ahead.
Lynne White (leader), Karen Baker (scribe), John Dement, Susi Lang, Jenny Mason, Janette Roberts.