Hollyford
Hollyford; Madeline
Hidden falls
Lake Alabaster; Madeline
Lake Alabaster to Pyke River
Forgotten River; slot from upper valley
Forgotten River upper flats; Ark, Climax to right
Blue ducklings
Forgotten; upper flats
Olivine Ice Plateau to Aspiring; Tom Carter, Dave Herd
?
Olivine Ice Plateau to Aspiring
Olivine Ice Plateau to Forgotten Valley and Darrans; Dave Herd
Olivine Ice Plateau, possibly Destiny
Olivine Ice Plateau, Gable; Roger, Tom, Dave
Olivine Ice Plateau, snow cave
Olivine Ice Plateau, Passchendale Ridge
Olivine Ice Plateau, Tower
Olivine Ice Plateau, Tom
Olivine Ice Plateau, from Little Ark down Arawata; Haast Range right
Olivine Ice Plateau, Andy Glacier and ice fall from Gyrae, Trinity Glacier
Olivine Ice Plateau, in the ice fall; Dave
Aspiring from Haast Range
Celmisia
Bottom of Bonar Glacier in Waipara River
Length of Haast Range to Fingalls Head
?
Aspiring from Waipara
Today, the Olivine Wilderness is in Mt Aspiring National Park and is one of New Zealand’s premier wilderness areas. For 65 km, the boundary runs along the western crest of the Main Divide from above the Rock Burn to the Wilkin. This ‘Land of Beyond’ includes tributaries of the Pyke, Cascade, Arawhata and Waiatoto rivers, and the Red Hills, Olivine and Haast Ranges.
The area is best approached on journeys of a week or more duration. The Five Pass trip would be the most used route (though only a fraction of the route is actually in the Wilderness Area), and one of the easiest. Others use the Beans Burn-Fohn Saddle-Olivine-Forgotten route to the Olivine Ice Plateau and back. There is a nice pass-hopping trip utilising Four Brothers Pass, Beresford Pass and Stag Pass. Things get more serious in the head of the Arawhata and Waiatoto, where access can be long and challenging.
See Wilderness Magazine.
Olivines 1954/55
 Mountains of Northwest Otago |
Party: Tom Carter, Roger Coventry, Rowen Crawford, Dave Herd.
Notes written by Rowen Crawford during the trip, 18 Dec 1954 to 6 Jan 1955, 19 days.
- Sunday 18 December
- We woke on the foreshore of the Queenstown Gardens, cooked breakfast on the primus, and packed up the tent EARLY so we would not be noticed. We went by ferry up to the Routeburn track. Had trouble finding the track after Routeburn Flats Hut; it was located 200 yds downstream, at the start of the Flats. Up and up with 74 lb packs cutting into your breathing … and no talking! Met two girls coming over from Deadmans. Stopped just short of Lake Harris for tea at 6 pm. Then decided to continue after the meal as the daylight could not be wasted, so pressed on after recuperating in the brilliant evening. Just off the saddle we had a good view of the Darran Range north to Tutuko and south to the Eglington valley.
- Monday 19 December
- Awoke to a very windy, sunny morning at 5 am. Last night we sidled around off the track to the head of the Hollyford and descended to a wide bench, after trying to catch a fawn, one of a herd of 15 deer. At 9:30 we tried to locate Deadmans track … unsuccessful, so Dave and I cooked breakfast, and we crashed down the lowest part of the bench; 2½ hrs later we hit the Hollyford Road and down the river to High Falls Creek where Dave found a good specimen of fools’ gold. Onto Mid Hut at 12.45 in the scorching heat with a breeze. Swam before lunch and lounged in the shade.
- The bush we have been passing through is fragrant with the smell of blossom. How I wish you could be here to see all the beauty. Plodded downstream and swam and eeled in a creek just before we reached Hidden Falls at 5 pm, all quite tired. Went up stream to see the falls. Camped on the river bank. Across is Mt Madeline, 8290 ft, and Alice, 7144 ft. Coming down the river this afternoon, the sun was streaming through the bush, tuis and shining cuckoos warbling away, and all else quiet, even the river, as it so deep and wide, about 25 ft and deep blue and clear.
- Tues 20th
- Last night we tried to sleep early, but mosquitoes and sandflies made it impossible and there was at last a mad rush for the hut for respite. In the melee crossing the river by dark, the pressure cooker lid was damaged. Away at 6 15 am onto Pyke Hut at 9 30. Sunny, still not a cloud in the sky. There is a new locked hut also. Plodded on and reached Lake Alabaster, around 10-12 miles long. We had good views up to the head and while going further round, Madeline and Alice were reflected in the dead calm waters. While lunching, the northerly breeze chopped the lake surface.
- Pushed on in the sun to the head where a stream meanders across flats on true left of the valley. There is a waterfall with a large pool at the bottom. Five minutes up and 200 yds past this, just after a lagoon, the track begins. While crossing the stream from the waterfall, David managed to sink to his hips, but we pulled him out. The track goes up steeply from 1500 ft and continues up and up. At 5.15 we stopped beside the stream that forms a waterfall. It comes from a 10 ft cleft on a flat; all on a cliff face! We felt rather tired after the long pull up, and it appears we have surmounted most of the climb. Our daily swim was at the bottom of the waterfall. Have just had a great brew of cocoa, with our really grand scroggin, with its high % of chocolate. I’ll sleep like a log again tonight honey, as we’re above sandfly level, thank goodness.
- Wed 21
- Sunny and hot again. Left at 5.30 to continue up this valley; hard going and steep. Reached the pass, took photo of Skippers Range. Reached Olivine River 5 hrs later;7 hrs from Pyke to Olivine. The flats are a few acres in extent and welcome after the bush push we’ve been through. Really hot again! From the pass, we saw the southern peaks of the Olivines; Ark and Intervention. Off down to sidle above the river, then across the natural bridge, 80 yds from the end of the flats. The route lies up a broad snowgrass shelf about 800-1000 ft above. Lunched then up to the bench and along it in the boiling hot sun.
- Dropped down a spur at the end, which was very good going. Eventually got into the Olivine gorge at the bottom at 4:45. The river was crystal clear and quite warm. Felt really tired after all the bush pushing. Moved on and were soon duck hunting; eventually got one for the pot. Arrived Forgotten River flats 6 pm. The flats are extensive. The large river issues from a 4-foot cleft in the cliff into a deep smooth pool. No wonder it was not discovered for years. The climb up to the bench today, was to bypass the Olivine Gorge, we climbed considerably higher than Alabaster Pass. It is colder here tonight; we’ve got a fire on as it will most probably be our last one before living in ice and snow.
- This morning was the first I really could enjoy our rice cooked with bacon in it; the very fatty bacon is not really cooked, just warm. We have jacked up the pressure cooker with wire and two sticks; it’s remarkable that it goes. Clouds came over for a while, but soon cleared perfectly. I could eat a horse and its lucky we have more in the form of the blue ducks, even though tough, but good when you are as hungry as we are.
- Thurs 22
- Dawned clear and sunny once more. Away by 6 am to climb up onto the Forgotten River flats, which lie in a hanging valley some miles long. Temperature colder with a heavy fall of dew in the night. Missing you an awful lot honey. Into the flats just under two hours; up to the bivvy rock another hour. The valley is a huge flat swarming with deer; they just seem to be in all directions, counted 80 at one time. The sun streaming down and its terrifically hot. We found the TTC bivvy and the old food cache; this dates back 6 years! One stew and some macaroni were edible [to us], the remainder stank horribly. Washed hair and handkerchief, and aired out our bags, before going up to the ice plateau. We decided to feed and fired up for the last time and ate some of the musty macaroni. It went down…just. We are taking a shovel that was air dropped with the food by the HVTC. There were two more shovels still left at the bivvy when they abandoned the gear. Left at 10.15 am and up true right around a bend to come across 2 paradise ducks with 3 ducklings in tow. Whilst photographing them, Tom chased down a fawn, I skinned it and we had extra meat. An operation deep freeze plane flew over, our only view of the outside world.
- Lunched at 12.15 away up a snowgrass spur which seems to come onto a series of shelves leading up to the side of the icefall. Had the new spotted fawn skin out drying in the burning sun. Climbed through the icefall to the top at 5 pm, a terrific graunch in the heat. My legs are severely burnt. On the plateau on the ice and flat, to site a cave under Intervention. Saw two deer plod across the whole plateau; thought they were people! Started the cave at 6 and finished at 9.30 pm, exhausted. Now the primus is going and the stew is heating up. When I was going to get some water, there was a tremendous crack, they yelled out, and a fall of ice came down above me, tried to run but the slope was steep, and I dodged it. There were a large number of gentians just before Forgotten Col.
- Fri 23
- Went to sleep at 11 pm. Dawned clear and sunny again. Away at 5 am to climb Gable. Steep slopes up, but much steeper and exposed as we climbed down, on the southern edge of the plateau. We sat on some rocks to sort out our route along the plateau, through the icefalls. Cloud appearing from west. Took phots of Aspiring and the Arawata. We don’t feel very energetic at all today. Got back to the cave at 12.30 to start digging further in. Lunched on nearby rocks at 1.00.
- The heavy cumulus cloud is now drifting all around, but sun shining through. I’m crunched between two boulders with Tom writing this. We’re 100 yds away from the cave. It’s good to be resting for the first time. I’ve just put up some decorations in the cave which Roger brought; balloons and a bell. Took a photo, f 3.5 at 1/25. We slept for a couple of hours, then had the stew with a leg of fawn which added to the flavour. Off tomorrow early to climb; Roger and Tom to try Tower, Dave and I Climax and Destiny.
- Sat 24
- It is 4.30 pm now, and I have not written today so far as we have been quite active. Roger stayed behind as his heel was very sore. So, the three of us set out to climb on the off chance the weather would hold. It dawned a vivid green, with high cloud coming from the south. At 5.30 am we went across the top of the plateau, first of all towards Climax. Reached the summit at 7.30 am on crampons. Continued on and up Daedelus, across top of the Joe Glacier, to climb Destiny, a beautiful snow crested peak, with a slot right at the summit. We had been cramponing across very steep slopes and through numerous slots. Then we went away down and on to climb Paschendale, a rocky buttress with shear sides and a block top. Tom and I went up and Dave slept until we returned. I led up but told Tom that as I was marrying shortly, he could belay me down, as it was a long way down! We all then descended, starting an avalanche and got down to the plateau again, then plugged in soft snow to the cave at 3.30, tired out. The weather held out until we were coming down, then the mist lowered. I wore a cheesecloth mask all day as my nostrils were severely burnt. All in all, a great day for climbing; a light breeze, the colours of the sky were always changing. All day while climbing I was thinking of you. Tonight it’s Christmas Eve; wondering what you are doing at home. After our stew with another tiny leg of venison, Roger brought out a little Christmas cake decorated with two ice axes; went down a treat. An early start tomorrow, to cross the plateau, down through the Andy Glacier, up the Trinity Glacier, to camp on Trinity Col.
- Sunday 25
- I had breakfast started at 2 am, when ready I woke the others to be away early, but a wet, cold southerly had come up in the night. You can’t hear anything in the cave, it’s just insulated from the world outside.
- Its 9 am now and sunny with a cold wind and soft, soft snow all over. Lying here thinking of you, getting ready for church and the day’s events. Now 7.30 pm. It cleared 11am, we packed and were off by noon, down the plateau and steeply into the Andy. We spent some time immersed in it trying to sort out routes through the beginning of the lower icefall. The crevasses were wide and deep, with bridges across most. Tom went off two of them, but belayed okay. On one of them a foot in width, he slipped down grabbing at the side. I went along it without my axe, belayed by Roger, and hauled him up. Afterwards, I was amazed at being able to pull Tom and his pack out of the slot in the given moment. We soon found it impossible to continue, so headed back the way we had come up to the top, after 5 hours. We discovered the Andy falls very steeply at the end and does not join the Trinity Glacier on the other side fully. The ice off both falls down into the Williamson. We sidled around the range, beneath Tower and Little Ark. Still in ice and with snow all around, we looked for a way down to some rocks below. The snow was in avalanche condition and it only took the four of us in line to jump to set it off and down we shot, at speed. It was exhilarating until we saw it all disappearing into a schrund! We each managed to jump it and landed on the downside…and so to bed. In the sack and looking down the Williamson through the layers of cloud which have been with us all day, with the sun shining through. The rock we are perched on is mighty hard on the spine. No tent, just the stars above. We hope it keeps fine as this spur is rather exposed. The Pic D’Argent Glacier is below us; we have to cross it tomorrow and sidle around Ark and Gyrae to reach the Trinity. Only 12 days to see you my dear.
- Mon 26
- A beautiful clear starlit, clear night. Away just after 5 am, sidled down into Pic D’Argent between its two icefalls. Good crampon conditions. Up steep slopes, then over Gyrae Ridge, then down steep snow slopes toward Trinity Col. Views to the Red Hills and Awarua Bay on the coast.
- Rock climbing down to the Trinity Glacier, with smooth going. Then to Pass Creek Col in 3 hours. Wonderful to be out of the grip of the plateau; a cloudless day, the sun burning down. We’ve seen another plane go over us. Now we head down Pass Creek, into the Williamson River valley.
- Its 7.40 pm, and we are at the junction of the Williamson and then Arawata. We had traveled down the creek into snowfields, then the creek again ended very steeply with us in it until we finished up in the Williamson Gorge at 12.30. Followed the Williamson down, bush crashing all the way. We crossed at flats halfway down, then got a deer trail to the flats at the Arawata junction;13½ hours on the go and really tired. The Williamson is glacial fed and was at its height when we came down. It was a grey torrent roaring along, it just got on your nerves. Into Pass Creek, there were numerous patches of large celmisia, Mt Cook lilies, and senecio and olearia shrubs, white and yellow. In the Williamson there are lots of flowers on the flats. Still been fine, no clouds in the sky!
- Tues 27
- Forded the Williamson at 6 am, safely. Then along through the “ten-hour gorge”. There is reputably a deer sidle which takes 4 hours, we heard. We arrived at the flats at 7 am, and followed a good deer trail into the gorge, then it climbed and so did we to 800 ft…then it petered out at 800 feet! We are all exhausted after a full day’s bush bashing through terrific country, traversing over huge boulders all on steep cliffs.
- We tried to climb out of the gorge three times but eventually got turned back. We came to Halfway Creek, and the gorge was spectacular there; the river plunging down 15-foot drops in great leaps.
- The flats were huge, with deer and cattle grazing all around. It was a great reward to walk and smell the sweetness of the grass…and its knee high! As we came out onto the flats 200 yds of the island, we found an old bivvy under a rock face. Quoting from Arawata Bill by Ian Doughery ISBN 0-908988-07-9, which records Tom Carter’s words; there was an old axe with a rotten handle, remains of a bed composed of slatted wood, and a piece of canvas sluicing hose. We confidently assume the shelter to be made by Arawata Bill. The view downstream is glorious, huge flats with the Haast Virgins, Bell, Lucifer and Knob, at the end with the nearly full moon above.
- Wed 28
- It’s 2 pm my darling and I’m lying in a breeze on my bag, in the sun. We’ve had to have a rest day as we are all done in. We crossed the Arawata at 7 am, when it was at its least flow, and made it, although it was a long ford and the icy water waist deep. After we crossed, we walked downstream to find a campsite, crept into our bags, made the rice and bacon, and slept until midday when we lunched.
- It’s unanimously agreed that the biscuits are really good eating; we have butter on them with ¼ or ½ lb of Chesdale cheese and sometimes honey on the second one. We pulled all the food out of our packs and went over the lot, finding we have rancid butter, sugar, milk powder and a little cocoa over. So, we made a good brew of the same and consumed it after lunch at 2.50. We have used up a lot of barley sugar, due to the hard going, and won’t be able to have much more. Think about you a lot my dear; could just walk down the Arawata and come to see you in Hokitika. Took a photo up the flats at the peaks we have left on the Plateau, Tower, Intervention and Gable, with Pauline Falls on the left. At 6 pm we pushed off downstream to Slater Creek, 1¼ hrs; this was after tea. Walking through knee high grass, tall yellow flowers and high clover, with a herd of Ayreshire cattle moving along in front. Thinking of you again and to sleep.
- Thurs 29
- Terrible night of mosquitoes, then sandflies, and hardly any sleep. It’s just about taken away the benefit of our rest day. However away before 6 am with blue sky above, but cloud around peaks. Climbed up to the Eros Range, north of Slate Creek. After 6 hrs had a break and into the sack for a while. Soon we hope to be above bush on this spur. My darling, it’s now 7 pm and we are in the most wonderful valley of flowers; there are all varieties: big celmesias, then little ones, white and yellow. Fields and fields of Mt. Cook lilies all huge with many flowers on the same stem, and small blue gentians. Dropping down into the valley the sides were carpeted with big South Island eidelwiess. Today we’ve been going for 11 hrs, not counting our 2 hr rest for lunch. We came out on to the snow grass, not long after lunch and climbed up and up…., till we reached where we could see the Eros Range, which we thought we were on! It’s over the other side of this range …. such a disappointment. We climbed down a gut, roping the packs down in two places, and camped on a wee flat with a tumbling stream beside us. The sun will soon go down over the plateau. Had a great view of the mighty Arawata, coming up the spur, and right down to Jackson Bay. Also, the whole of the northern Olivines, and when we topped the ridge, Aspiring and the Bonar Glacier. This new valley ahead means an extra day, so the climb of Eros is out now. Tomorrow, we have to climb out of here and over Buncombe Peak and into the Waipara. Tom has made a concoction which we enjoyed thoroughly; it was rancid butter, sugar, and dried milk …. when hungry it’s wonderful! Camped at 5.50 at 6000 ft.
- 30 Fri
- After a glorious night’s sleep, we were off before 7 am up the Eros Range ridge still to summit on Buncombe at 11 am. Sunny with long wisps of stratus cloud, light breeze, views into the head of the Waipara, of our route 2 yrs ago, down Hectors Col, and a sight of Matukituki Saddle. Aspiring towers above all. Reached a large tarn on the edge of snowgrass at 2 pm. Six deer were browsing. Aspiring looks grand from this point, and also Eros with its hanging glacier falling into the Waipara. We followed good deer trails converging near the bush line and sidling down, almost to the river, only having to bush crash for a stretch. Crossed to a good camp site at 4.30 at Fireman Stream. The old Waipara seems like home again, with its gorges, green, with big peaks around, hanging glaciers and falls. The river in the afternoon is easily fordable. Only 7 more days until I see you again my dear.
- 31 Sat
- A large halo around the sun does not bode well! It’s 3.30 pm now and we are just over the Matukituki side of Hectors Col. Tom is mixing up more of our rancid concoction, I bet we wouldn’t eat it if we were well fed! It has been cloudy today, still hot. Left camp at 7 am, going up river to a large stream which appeared to lead to Mat Saddle. We climbed up all feeling very tired, until the bush then sidled around and eventually into the very head of the Mat. River. Camped at 6000 ft. Had grand views of the Bonar Icefall breaking off and large chunks hitting the bottom; Aspiring with a long cloud curling from its summit; views into the hanging valley below Ionia and the next peak, from which source the Bascand Stream flows into a waterfall. There is nowhere as much snow here as 2 yrs ago. Our camp is on a small snowgrass flat, rocks all round, with a snow fed stream for water. We had a brew first then half an hour later the stew and into the sack at 6.30; I read the Prologue to Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. Keas hopping all around, Roger catching one in his hand.
- 1 Jan 1956 Sun
- My darling Winning, a happy New Year to you, may it bring all we hope for in our lives. The day dawned clear with a cold wind. Left camp late at 8 am. Sidled around Mt Bevan to Joffre Col and climbed Bevan 7470 ft. A great rock scramble. Then we began digging a snow cave again. Aspiring towers above everything here. There is sign of a cave on the other side of the Bonar, at the foot of the NW ridge. Tomorrow, we hope to climb Aspiring; Tom and Roger up SW ridge, Dave and I up the NW. I don’t like the thought of my ankle standing up to the cramponing on the steepness of the SW route. Only six more days and we will be together. Have just abandoned the cave, because after 10 ft in we struck a hard ice band. 12.15 pm. About five minutes away we found a camp site, with poles, wood and ropes!
- Having lunch and trusting the weather to stay reasonable for us to stay here in an exposed position. Lazed around and hit the sack at 4.30 in the open, no tent up, to wake at 1 am to climb. I woke at 8 pm and the wind was rising and cloud coming in. In ¼ hour, we were packed and racing up the Bonar and onto the Quarterdeck, now in the dark and swirling cloud and wind. Tom abruptly stopped and we all cannoned into him, calling him a lot of names! He had felt a wind on his face … it was the edge of a 3000 ft drop into Gloomy Gorge. I don’t remember apologising to him!!! It started to snow and we picked our way more slowly, but with the moon coming up, we could see more. Arrived at French Ridge Bivvy at 1 am; and so to sleep.
- 2nd Jan Mon
- We had a brew when we got here, and found some dried milk and apricots, which we cooked and consumed in double quick time. I am sitting in the doorway in the sun attending to our breakfast, the usual, with the addition of rice and herbs we have found. It’s 4.30 now and the rain is hitting the hut hard. The place is 9 by 10 ft, and low roofed, so really cosy in the storm. We have read, slept and yarned. I’m reading Tilman’s Nandi Devi. This rest is so good. Tom’s on stew and the extra he has found of meat, curry, and thyme has been simmering on. Tom then boiled rice, and after fried it in butter with condiments; there is a great variety of food for folk like us who have been on short rations!
- 3rd Jan Tues
- Slept well as the keas are not sliding down the roof … they don’t like the pouring rain! 11 am and still pouring. Last night before sleeping we discussed FOOD at Wanaka. Decision: fresh bread and butter, fruit cake and butter, fruit chocolate and milk. 7.30 pm; been reading, sleeping; the rain is heavy, the wind is strong and gusty.
- 4th Jan
- Wed. Raining intermittently and still windy. So, off at 9.30 am and in Aspiring Hut at 11.30; a brisk walk. River okay. Twenty folk in the hut. Talked, read and ate a lot! Learned of Davy Gunn’s drowning on the day we were above on the range. It’s good to sit half asleep, and not searching out routes and thinking what lies ahead. On Wed night ten Otago TC guys and two shooters from Cascade Hut came up and had an evening of song. One chap put on a show of hypnotism.
- 5th Jan Thurs
- Still pouring incessantly. Thunder and lightning displays rather vivid from 4 pm onward. Reading eating and cooking. Tom is longing to teach us whist as there are cards in the hut. Had our ordinary breakfast, then venison steaks, which were so good, that we had another lot finishing about 10.30 am! I made some cakes out of oatmeal and flour, put them in the oven till hard. They lasted till we went to sleep! Two inches of rain.
- 6th Jan
- Fri. 5 ½ inches of rain. Had a roaring fire last night, with people giving talks until 10.30. David Hall spoke on mountain literature; another spoke on beetles he found in the valleys; another re a month spent at Shipton’s climbing school in England. And a 50 yr old about his time on the Douglas Glacier.
- On the 6th Jan 1955 we walked out, taxied to Wanaka and ATE.
Twenty years later. Ron Carrad, a fellow Boys Brigade leader, elder and friend, finished the last segment of the N.Z mapping coverage, by the Lands and Survey Dept. In 1976 he was responsible for the Aspiring section to be completed. He and his staff had consulted many accounts of explorers and trampers; Charlie Douglas, Harper, Arawata Bill, and our own Tararua Club accounts of trips by our friends. We saw for the first time a larger picture of where we had adventured, and grown in experience in life.
Waipara end of Bonar
Arawata 10-hour Gorge
Arawata flats, Eros Creek
Kea
Route up to Buncombe on Haast Range
On Haast Range
Tarn, Aspiring
Along Haast Range; Iso and Therma Glaciers
Haast Range; Twin peaks of Helen
Waiatoto?
Haast Range
Fingalls Head
Back of Aspiring; Therma Glacier falling to Waiatoto
Back of Aspiring; Iso on right; Rolling Pin on right extreme
Haast Range—Waiatoto and Wilkin peaks
Haast Range—Rolling Pin
Aspiring NW and SE ridges
Matukituki Valley; Bevan, Joffre
Matukituki Valley from Arawata saddle
Coming down Bevan
Coming down Bevan
French Ridge bivvy; Roger
French Ridge; Gloomy Gorge
Avalanche
From French Ridge
Matukituki; Dave, Tom
Matukituki; Tom, Dave, Roger; after 3 weeks