This article was published in Tararua Tramper, July 2025
Roaring Stag and Cattle Ridge Huts
17-18 May M and EM
There were spots of rain as the van drove into the Putara Valley. Parkas were nervously donned, but by the time we got to the second swing bridge across the Mangatainoka River things were looking decidedly up. In just shorts and tees we ground our way up to the Herepai track junction and then gently rolled down to Roaring Stag Hut in time for a brew and spot of lunch in the sun.
There was only one occupant in residence, a somewhat reticent hunter and his dog. With a rainstorm predicted to arrive overnight, the leader gave the punters three options: stay put at Roaring Stag, do a quick afternoon up and down to Cattle Ridge, or throw caution to the wind (literally) and chance our arm overnighting at Cattle Ridge Hut.
Much to his disgust the newbies voted to climb up to the hut for the night. Ahh, the optimism of youth.
The track up to Cattle Ridge Hut has a reputation as the steepest in the park but we made short work of the 700m, arriving 30 minutes under Tararua Footprints’ two-hour prediction. Cattle Ridge Hut is a delight, having received a complete makeover back in 2019. Reclad in corrugated iron, the windows double glazed, it now boasts a full enclosed vestibule, big enough for trampers to change out of muddy boots and store wet packs before entering the hut. Sigh, if only all Tararua huts received this upgrade …
The hut is infamous for having only five bunks despite being a NZFS six-bunk design. Urban legend has it that the sixth bunk was removed sometime in the noughties to comply with an overzealous interpretation of the fire safety regulations. Not so, says retired NZFS staffer Hans Kolinko. When the hut was renovated in the 1970s an upper bunk was removed to create more usable space. We agreed the remaining lower bunk makes for a fine day bed with its north-facing window.
While Rueben went exploring up the ridge in the already gale-force winds, Mike and Graham set to work sawing up dry leatherwood for the fire. Meanwhile, the leader tried out the day bed for an afternoon nap.
Mike’s devotion to the fire lighting soon reaped dividends, the interior toasty warm as we settled in for a stormy night. Sometime after midnight the wind rose to severe gale, the rain beating hard on the iron cladding, the hut straining on its tie down cables. Sleep was fitful and at dawn the party, kitted up in full storm gear, assembled in the vestibule. The instructions were simple - don’t stop till you reach the safety of the bush line.
It was an exhilarating descent as the track had channelled the rain into a series of waterfalls. We were quickly down to the Ruamahanga River where even a minor side creek was something of a challenge. As we were crossing the swing bridge, the Ruamahanga River was in a raging, muddy mood. There was no sign of the EM group as we made our way to two creeks known for becoming uncrossable in heavy rain. The first was no problem, the second, angry and thigh deep but, with caution, doable.
It was a relief to have those last obstacles overcome as the rain continued to bucket down. Near the turnoff we finally caught up with Mark and Cathy. Considering the atrocious conditions, first-time tramper Cathy was surprisingly chipper, a grin radiating out from under her pulled- down hood. Mark told us their hut-sharing hunter was living off just rice and the possums he’d managed to shoot. He was most grateful to receive their spare onion but disappointingly didn’t offer any of his possum casserole in return.
We didn’t muck about and raced down the Mangatainoka as fast as we could back to the sanctuary of the van, the luggage compartment providing a useful one-at-a-time changing room. Back inside and drying out there was time for a late lunch while waiting for the EM party and (for the males anyway) a well-deserved snooze.
A heavy rain warning for the Tararua Range was in place over the weekend. Was it madness to go? Probably, but isn’t getting soaked to the skin all part of the club’s initiation rites?
Paul McCredie (leader M and scribe), Mark Edwards (leader EM), Reuben Haslip, Graham Morley, Cathy Rodgers, Mike Voets, Sarah White